![]() As Lo notes: “Adolescence is so inspiring. I guess I’m just lonely and extremely homesick!”Ī return to teen obsessions lies at the heart of this season’s brand of nostalgia. I see it as reintroducing the then-cool stuff through the eyes of an Asian to the western world and putting my own girly spin on them. I see no difference between referencing 90s grunge and doing a Bake Off-inspired collection,” says Lo, who came of age around the turn of the millennium. “My generation still references those four women quite a lot on just about every occasion, so it’s still happening and totally current. His dreamy, rainbow-hued mermaid collection channelled Carrie Bradshaw in her various guises, and was rooted in a genuine love of the show as well as a knowing wink to its cheesier qualities. We’re revisiting a shared millennial youth, and it’s both a comforting and slightly cringey exercise.īut is it too early for us to be disappearing down the millennial rabbit hole? Not according to Ryan Lo, whose hyper-girly universe centres on an adoration of things like Bridget Jones, Sailor Moon and Sex and the City. We want to escape into Calvin Klein’s #mycalvins reboot of its 90s logo underwear or Marques’Almeida’s angsty handkerchief hemlines and low-slung miniskirts. It was ultimately about proposing an alternative to the reality of today’s world, and that seems to be what’s driving much of fashion’s current affinity for various forms of nostalgia. Their emotionally raw show looked not to the 00s but instead to punk – the movement that shaped Edward Meadham’s youth – in a revolt against what they see as an increasingly misogynistic, homophobic and intolerant culture. “Nostalgia sells more than sex these days,” says Benjamin Kirchhoff, one half of Meadham Kirchhoff, who presented one of the most significant collections of the new season. But where fashion’s reminiscing can sometimes feel superficial – a silhouette, a styling gimmick – SS15’s neo-nostalgia feels different. Of course, fashion has always obsessed over what was, forever caught in a weird maelstrom of trawling through the decades for things that will help make sense of the present and invoke the shock of the new, and its key players have long re-proposed the once-icky. In a season where blasts from the relatively recent past are sweeping through collections, the Destiny’s Child shout-out was apt. It certainly had all of the trademark Margiela irony, and its deliberate bad taste felt like the sartorial embodiment of a #TBT accompanied by a smirking emoji and sincere red heart. If Ms Knowles saw the SS15 MM6 Maison Margiela show, she will no doubt have nodded approvingly when Beyoncé’s red bandana top from the gig made a reappearance in industrial rubber, paired with light-wash jeans – a moment that prompted us to ask whether this season, fashion had grown Tumblr-hungry. Brilliantly serious, she declared nearly all her creations “timeless”, including a symphony of red strappy tops and embroidered rhinestone denim (with the waistbands cut off for extra elegance) that the trio wore at a Hyde Park concert 15 years ago. ![]() During an interview last year, Tina Knowles was asked to rate her costume back catalogue for Destiny’s Child. ![]()
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